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Herbalism, like midwifery skills, is one of the oldest parts of
teaching within
the craft, but is also one where we have lost a huge amount of
information and
where science has yet to catch up. Every pagan culture has utilized
the
herbalism of its particular region, and I have found no one source or
teacher
who could possibly know about every herb that grows on the Earth. Yet
today we
have the opportunity to perhaps achieve this within a lifespan or
two, using the
electronic communications at our fingertips. Science is now slowly
beginning to
learn the importance of the natural herbs in healing, but they will
take
centuries to figure it all out because of the way they go about
things, unless
nudged.
The first step in herbalism is to gather the tools you will need, and
that is
the main point of this first message. I have found the following
useful and in
many cases vital to learn and practice the use of herbs.
A Good mortar and Pestle, one of stone or metal is preferred. If wood
is used
you will need two, one for inedibles and one for edibles - make sure
they do not
look identical, as you do not want to accidentally poison anyone!!!
Containers: Although you can buy dried herbs over the counter in many
places
these days, do not store them in the plastic bags they come in, as
these are
usually neither reusable nor perfectly airtight. Rubbermaid style
plastic
containers are good, but expensive. I have used glass coffee and
spice
jars/bottles to good effect, as well as some medicine bottles. The
more you
recycle the better ecologically, just make sure they have been
thoroughly washed
and dried before placing anything inside them.
Labels: This is vital! None of us in this day and age can possibly
recognize
each herb in its various forms simply by sight. Always label your
containers as
you fill them, and if possible date them when they were filled so you
don't keep
spoiled stock on the shelf.
A Tea Ball: A good metal teaball of the single cup size can be very
useful in
the long run when your are experimenting, and when you are making
single person
doses of teas and tonics.
Cheesecloth: Useful for straining a partially liquid mixture and
occasionally
for the making of sachets.
A Good Sized Tea Kettle: preferably one that will hold at least a
quart of
water.
A Good Teapot: for simmering mixtures. I use one from a Chinese
import store
that has done me well.
A good cutting board and a SHARP cutting knife, for just herbal work.
A notebook, of some sort to record the information in as you go, both
successes
and failures. Always record anything new you try that may or may not
work, and
also and research information you get from various sources.
An eyedropper.
White linen-style bandages: Some ace bandages are also useful in the
long run.
A metal brazier, of some sort, or a metal container that can
withstand heavy
usage and heat from within or without, useful for several things
including the
making of your own incenses.
Reference sources, Shortly you should see a list of books that I have
read from
in the past that I consider useful, build from this as a starting
point to
others and to your teachers help.
Thats it to start, you'll pick the rest up as you go. Take your time
studying,
take lots of notes, compare your sources and your own personal
results on each
herb and on herbal mixtures of any kind. 
HERBS INDOORS Many herbs will grow well in pots on sunny windowsills, in window
boxes, hanging
baskets and in tubs or barrels in a sun room or on a balcony. There
should even
be enough space on one large, south-facing windowsill to grow a
selection of the
basic flavoring herbs or a row of scented herbs that can be used for
making
tisanes. If you have a sun room or baloney, then 4 tubs planted with
mixed
annuals and perennials and a good proportion of evergreen herbs for
winter
picking could provide most of the fresh herbs needed by a small
household, as
well as being decorative and sweetly scented.
Light and Temperature
The first necessity is light. Few herbs suitable for indoor growing
will thrive
in the shade. Most need sunlight for at least half the day, so set
them in a
south facing window, if possible, otherwise one facing east or west.
It is
possible to grow herbs in a shady room under special fluorescent
tubes, which
should be set about six inches above the top of the plant.
Temperature is important. It is useless to attempt to grow herbs
directly above
a radiator or stove in an airless kitchen that is often steamy and
full of
fumes. Ideally, there should be warmth during the day, lower
temperatures at
night and some humidity. In a centrally heated house, humidity may be
lacking so
keep a bowl filled with water above the radiator or near the herbs. A
direct
draft may harm the plants though fresh air is necessary.
Clay and Plastic Pots
Plastic pots are often used today, being cheaper, lighter and less
likely to
break than clay. But there are some advantages in using an unglazed
clay pot,
the most important being that excess water will evaporate through the
clay walls
so the roots are not likely to become waterlogged. Drowning by over
watering is
the most common fate of indoor herbs. Another advantage is that the
moisture
content in the soil can be discovered by tapping a clay container
sharply; it
will give a ringing sound if the soil is too dry and a dull thud if
too wet.
Whether plastic or clay, the container should have an adequate
drainage hole and
be stood in a saucer or tray. A layer of gravel in the tray will
ensure that the
pot never sits in stagnant water.
Boxes and Barrels
Wooden boxes or barrels make good containers if you have the space.
Boxes should
be at least 10 inches deep. Saw barrels in half and use them as tubs,
or cut
several holes about 2 inches across in their sides and grow a herb
from each
hole. If you use a large barrel in this way, put a narrow tube of
wire netting
down the center from top to bottom, before filling it with earth. By
watering
down the tube, the moisture will spread evenly through the soil; with
no tube,
the lower plants may suffer from drought. Do not creosote the insides
of wooden
containers to sterilize them as the fumes may damage the plants,
instead make a
small fire of newspaper inside the container, just sufficient to char
and
sterilize the surface of the wood.
Hanging Baskets
To make the best use of all available space and light, plant a
hanging basket
with herbs, the upright species in the center and trailing mints and
thymes,
nasturtiums or ground ivy round the edge. Special clay bowls or wire
baskets can
be bought for this purpose or even an old kitchen colander will do.
To contain
moisture, line the wire basket thickly with sphagnum moss or hay, or
with a
plastic sheet, before filling it with earth.
A large, unglazed, terra-cotta bowl with 6 or 7 2-inch holes bored in
it will
make an ideal hanging onion pot, if you can buy one or have one made.
Fill it
with earth, plant chives in the top and press the bulbs of Welsh
onion into the
holes. You will be able to cut the hanging green shoots throughout
the winter.
Soil, Water, Food, and Care
Put a layer of broken crocks or stones in the bottom of large
containers before
filling them with soil and sprinkle a few spoonfuls of granulated
charcoal over
them to prevent the soil souring. Then, fill with a standard potting
compost
bought from a shop or good, loamy, garden earth mixed with a little
coarse sand.
Sterilize the garden earth for an hour in the oven if you wish, to
kill insect
eggs and weed seeds.
Be careful not to overwater, especially during the winter when plans
are resting
and should not be stimulated into unseasonal growth. It is best to
water in the
morning so that excess moisture can evaporate during the day and to
use only
tepid water. During the summer, it may be necessary to syringe the
leaves of
broad- leafed herbs such as sweet basil with tepid water to prevent
them from
flagging. The leaves of herbs in city window boxes will also need
occasional
syringing to prevent their pores becoming clogged with grime and
fumes.
Each spring, spread a little well-rotted compost over the earth in
the herb
container and water well. If any other food is needed, use a herbal
fertilizing
tea.
Although the restricted light and space will prevent herbs from
growing as large
indoors as they would outside, they will need regular cropping or
trimming to
keep them compact and controlled. Pinch out the center shoots to
encourage bushy
growth and cut off any runners. Examine the drainage hole regularly
and if root
fibers are showing, transfer the plant to a larger pot. What to Grow Many people will want to grow culinary herbs indoors that cannot be
bought fresh
and do not dry well. Three large pots, 12 inches in diameter, filled
with the
annuals, chervil, basil, and coriander, will provide a good mixture
with strong,
distinctive flavors. Sow their seeds directly into the pots in the
spring in
moist, fairly rich soil, and thin out the seedlings. The chervil and
coriander
will begin to shoot and grow leggy soon after midsummer, but basil,
especially
the compact bush basil, will continue into the winter months.
Sweet marjoram and summer savory also grow well indoors and are both
annuals.
For a basic supply of perennial, evergreen culinary herbs, plant
thyme species,
winter savory, a clump of Welsh onions and the prostrate rosemary.
Decorative
dwarf golden sage can be included, and the biennial parsley. None of
these are
invasive herbs and can be planted together, but mint needs a pot of
its own and
plenty of moisture. If you have room for a deep tub or barrel on a
balcony or
roof, then it may be possible to grow tall herbs such as angelica,
deep-rooted
caraway or horseradish; otherwise these species are obviously
unsuitable for
indoor growing.
Another series of pots or a large box could be used for growing herbs
for
tisanes. Plant peppermint and lemon balm (whose roots may need
confining), the
annual German chamomile, the little rock hyssop, lady's mantle and
trailing
ground ivy.
Herbs grown for their scent might include dwarf lavender species,
clove
carnation, dwarf santolina and upright and trailing pelargoniums.
There are
literally hundreds of pelargonium varieties, each with leaves of a
different
scent and shape, and all make admirable houseplants, being easy to
grow and easy
to propagate from cuttings. Use the leaves to flavor custards, creams
and
gelatins and in potpourri mixtures.
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